• For that extra special occasion why not start the day with a swim in your own private pool by
• Enjoy a treatment in one of the relaxation rooms with a view – they all look out onto a reflection pond that is set against a 43.2m sandstone relief.
The Whole Story
When visiting dignitaries such as Brezhnev, Ho Chi Minh or Jackie Kennedy were invited to Siem Reap in the early 1960s for a private tour of the temples of Angkor, they would be put up in the guest villa of Prince Norodom Sihanouk (later the King of Cambodia). Architecturally speaking, the two worlds couldn't have been more opposite. Known then as the Villa Princière, Prince Sihanouk's pad was a white-walled compound of modernist reinforced concrete. Designed by French architect Laurent Mondet and completed in 1962, it was and still is a sleek collection of low horizontal lines and capacious circular domes. Angkor, on the other hand, is a riot of Hindu shapes, figures and carvings, executed in acre after acre of solid sandstone.
On a pragmatic level, Prince Sihanouk had understood that there was no competing with Angkor Wat's exotic grandeur. He had also guessed, quite wisely, that after a day spent visiting the area's temples and monuments, guests might welcome a retreat into a soothing absence of decorativeness. And though nowadays he no longer owns or runs it, his villa continues to operate in the same contrast-rich style. Amansara's clean, sixties-inspired lines have more in common with Frank Sinatra's Palm Springs than with Jayavarman's VII's great capital of the mighty Khmer empire. Exploring the monumental remains left behind by a succession of Khmer kings is a strenuous pastime, and the hotel's groovy modernist aesthetic hasn't lost its appeal as a haven from Angkor's Hindu hype.
Angkor Wat is a Caligula-style feast of statistics, covering over five hundred acres of land - the surrounding moat alone is over six hundred feet wide and nearly four miles long. Built during the reign of King Suryavarman 11 in the first half of the twelfth century, the great complex was originally dedicated to the god Vishnu, striving through its architecture to create a microcosm of the Hindu universe (although it has since been converted to Buddhist practice). Its quintet of conical towers mimics the five heavenly peaks of Mount Meru and, to emphasize the rewards of heavenly life, the structure is adorned with carvings of over 1,800 apsaras (celestial maidens). But the most remarkable artistry lies in the galleries that run around the whole temple. These seemingly never-ending 'tapestries' of beautifully executed, intricately detailed bas-reliefs depict scenes from Hindu mythology and civic lore, covering the gambit of human experience.
To take in all the stories told by these figurative visual feasts would take many, many days – more time than most visitors have. That said, the greatest mistake that many travellers to Angkor make is not allowing enough time. It's impossible to visit Siem Reap successfully in just two days, no matter how determined or dedicated you are to the task. That's because Angkor Wat is only part of the picture. There are also – to name just a few – Bantheai Srei, Preah Khan, Ta Prohm and Neak Pean, not to mention Angkor Thom, the great town within whose walls the Khmer kings resided. And central to Angkor Thom is one of the most striking structures in the religious world, the temple of Bayon, composed of a collection of fifty-four massive stone towers, each carved in the shape of the smiling face of Buddha.
Simply put, Angkor is overwhelming, and Amansara's pristine sixties-inspired modernism with an Asian twist is just what you need after the carved cacophony of the Khmer temples.
Architect Kerry Hill's renovation of the Villa Princière is comfortable, clever and appropriate. He has taken the 1960s as a starting point and introduced furniture inspired by Jean Prouvé, executed in the distinctly Asian materials of teak and raffia. But it's the scale of Amansara that makes it so comfortable: it retains the feel of staying in someone's villa, without the occasional headache of having to be nice to the host. And yet because it's an Aman, the level of service creates the impression that you're the only one there.
From black-and-white snapshots taken when it first opened, it's clear that not all that much has changed since the Prince welcomed visitors here; the round dining room, for instance, is the same space used in the same way. But the place benefits hugely from the Aman group's commitment to aesthetic perfection. Guests lounge by the pool in Californian Palm Springs fashion; it's just that here the golf courses are (thankfully) replaced by the world's most captivating temples.
The Rooms
Amansara has twelve open plan Suites, similar in design, with finishes in terrazzo and timber. There is a combined sleeping and living area that contains a large writing desk and a king-size bed. Adjacent is a dressing area with hanging cupboards and drawers. The lounge has a sofa, an informal circular dining table and chairs. Leading down a few steps is the bathroom which opens onto a courtyard with a small water garden and cushioned banquette. Each suite is air-conditioned, with ceiling fans and a music system.
Amansara also has twelve Pool Suites, which feature a private six by five-metre swimming pool and are fronted by additional private dining areas beside a grassy courtyard.